16. Mangaturuturu – Wanganui Corner (RMT 4) – Ohakune – Whanganui

Sunday, February 24: Rain overnight, snow on the mountain, clearing to partly cloudy, one hail and rainstorm, otherwise in Whanganui overcast & wet

Tramping: 3.2 km

Dave’s/Brennagh’s (airbnb, $81.3)

We all slept in past 7:00 this morning and I was in no hurry at all, so I let the others pack and leave towards Whakapapa. A bit of sun shone on the new snow on the mountain, and otherwise the day looked promising.

With the others out of the way, I tried to organise my pack a bit better, and when all was in, I swept out the hut. There are pictures on the walls documenting the hut’s construction in the late 50s, and since then one fairly open and bright annex has been added, as well as solar panels and LED lights for the evenings.

I set off at a leisurely pace with the intent of taking a few photos along the way. Everything had dried the night before so all the electronics could go back into its holsters. Approaching Silica Rapids I took a bracket of them, as well as one of the distant view, with a number of single shots along the way. The route is indeed a scramble up the rapids, first on one side, then over the top of one waterfall to the middle and finally to the top.

Slide Show

Shortly after leaving the hut I had encountered an English couple who were wanting to do a day walk to Lake Surprise, and on the last ridge a German couple wanting to do the same and I explained the way to them both. At the top of the ridge Lake Surprise was indeed visible, and I could almost trace the long path I had undertaken yesterday in the growing shadows. For me, now, the track was almost at its end, which too, was visible over one last stream, one new slip and then up to the road.

Once there I could also see the weather coming towards me. I put on the fleece jacket, rain coat, wrapped the pack in its cover after taking off the crocs, water bottle and tripod. Things started getting serious, with hail, then rain and a strong wind, but it then began to clear again, with the myriad hills making their reappearance. Once the sun had come out again and things were a bit warmer I checked the two bob watch and it said just before 2:00, then set the pack on a support of the roadside barrier to try to get the bottom somewhat drier as well.

Interactive Map

What followed was not much. Not a busy road at the best of times, and no sign of a Dempsey vehicle. In the next hour about three vehicles went up to the skifields and down again, and another storm was imminent. I was trying to work out how I might spend an extra day in Ohakune, but the cold was quickly becoming overwhelming so I flagged down (not thumbed!) the very next vehicle, an ex-Jucy camper (very ex) manned by a former German couple living in Bordeaux. Driving style was not a highlight, but they agreed to take me down to Ohakune where they were staying.

Nairy a trace of a Dempsey vehicle on its way up the mountain either, and we were down at Jo’s at around 3:15. Not enough time for even a shower or change into fresh clothes despite Jo’s protestations, and she then ferried me with all my stuff down to town where we were in good time for the bus, as it was twenty minutes late. Once it was there I was loaded onto it without even as much as being asked for a ticket, and after a fraction of the way to Raetihi we returned, went once around the block, found a missing passenger and were off for good.

I remember coming up here along the Raukawa valley in 2015, but of course, it is much more impressive when you’re not doing the driving. With a delay of about half an hour we arrived in rainy Whanganui and I set off with my 35 kg to Bell St to be greeted by Brennagh. Just before the house a woman in an SUV pulled up and offered to take me, but I was really down to the last 100 m.

Once in my room the plan sprang into action: Get as much wet stuff out of the packs and spread it around to dry, then I collected some wearable clothes from the suitcase and headed for the shower. With that out of the way I was ready to go downtown for something to eat.

The pizza place from 2015 is no longer there, so I opted for an Indian place (Spice Guru, 23A Victoria Ave) for chicken tikka and naan, with a Tui for $20. Haven’t seen that much meat in a long time. Then to the supermarket for Moa’s Station IPA, which is quite acceptable.

Will have to make a plan for tomorrow, as switching on the computer tonight will still be too much of a culture shock. Chatted in the kitchen with Mark, an Indian MBA student, and Seena, a fellow guest.

The last day around the mountain: