E9: Greifswald-Eldena – Wolgast

Saturday, September 22: Fine but cold to begin with, increasing patchy cloud during the day and a couple of showers in the late afternoon

Hiking: 34.9 km

Pension am Peeneufer, Badstubenstr. 24, 17438 Wolgast, double as single with ensuite and breakfast, wifi (€49)

Up bright and early to have what little was being threatened for breakfast, and organise some stuff for along the track. Turned out there was more than the one slice of bread on offer, so all three could be had with jam, and the bread rolls occupied with cheese and sausage could be stashed away for lunch. There was OJ in addition to the coffee, and an egg as well. Had everything packed and ready to go – the host rather belatedly gave me my change from last night, and as I was leaving only the couple in the adjacent room were left to having their breakfast.

Went down to the supermarket in an attempt to redeem two of the soft drink bottles, to no avail, and bought a 1.5 L bottle of raspberry lemonade for a change. GPS tracker seemed to be working fine, except that the USB cover, which had thoroughly detached itself at the beginning of the trip is now missing, presumed dead. Not much of a loss, as it was always difficult to get on and stay on. I started walking out of town along the road. A bit of storm damage was lying around. The markers stopped fairly abruptly after leaving town and were absent for the next few km. Read more…

E9: Reinberg – Kirchdorf (detour) – Greifswald-Eldena

Friday, September 21: Fine and warm to begin with, strong gusts of wind and bits of dust storms during the course of the day, just before the end of the hike, rain

Hiking: 28.6 km

R. Biedenweg, Am Bierbach 1, double room as single, shower, toilet, use of fridge, with breakfast (€37.6)

Was unable to sleep much beyond 6:15 this morning, but lay in bed awaiting enough light to go to breakfast. Once that had been dealt with, I checked my email for today’s exact address and sent the hosts an email advising of my arrival time. Everything packed up just nicely, and I had plenty of time to go to the supermarket for today’s softdrinks, and to get to the bus station, where there was only the one bus that was waiting, and with a couple of minutes before scheduled leaving, take on the three passengers.

Church in Reinberg
Church in Reinberg
I had decided on Reinberg as the starting point for today, and a sign along the old cobblestone road parallel to the modern road proved me right – where cyclists might have started descending towards Stahlbrode, there was a detour sign in place saying keep straight ahead. No other signs around as to where this detour started. After just on an hour I was in Kirchdorf, where there was one sign, then it was up to me and map-reading my GoogleEarth extracts. In one of the outskirts of Jeeser (and a number of places today seemed to consist only of isolated outskirts) I discovered a railway station with regular services (at least more regular than the bus services in this part of the world), so that would be an alternative break point, if you needed to get to either Stralsund or Greifswald). Further down the road (and much of today’s section was along various roads) Jager turned up with two markers, and that was the last of the markers for a long time to come. Read more…

E9: Stralsund – Stahlbrode

Thursday, September 20: Cloudy very early in the morning, becoming quite fine, clouding over in the evening

Im Grünen

Hiking: 28.5 km

Some delivery truck had arrived with goods for the supermarket @ around 3:00, which briefly woke me. Apart from that I was around the block to breakfast just after 7:30, as I had a bus to catch, or at least order and catch. The proprietor briefly showed me the washing machine, and I returned to my room to try to get a skype call through to the transport agency for today’s bus. The first couple of calls ended in a “busy” message and loop back to the menu. I waited for a bit, then repeated the call and got through. My bus for today was ordered, but the gent on the other end of the line couldn’t give me any details about where to change buses, for that I would have to ask the bus driver himself. With that organised, I packed up all my stuff and went down to the supermarket to replenish a bottle of lemonade.

Straslund Churchyard
Straslund Churchyard
Then it was a long march through town. I had chosen the “blue” route (the latest .gpx file that I could find, which Georget – after some sanity checks for simpler files – eventually converted to .kml), which seemed to go down the main road (Frankenwall, Frankendamm, Rostocker Chaussee, where it seemed to join company with the “red” version – which covers all of the German section). Not any signs – even of a cycle track – could be seen and consulted my map to find where to get off, should I otherwise miss the opportunity. Just as that point a sign turned up for the Hansa Path, which was not helpful, and the path I was looking for went through Devin. Just before the hotel a cycle path did appear to join the paths on the map, and this would make sense, if it followed the shoreline right up to the major bridge, which would have been much more pleasant that walking or cycling down the main road. However, that is a speculation for another day. Read more…

E9: Hohendorf – Stralsund

Wednesday, September 19: Sunny and warm (not quite as hot as yesterday), persistent land wind, one or two more compact clouds

Im Grünen

Hiking: 29.0 km

Managed to string up two bath towels to cover the light coming through the window in the door, and the main window had a concertina blind on it which kept most of the light out. It was actually pretty quiet after about 10:00 and I got a fairly good night’s sleep, with people beginning to wake up again from about 6:30.

Through the Reeds
Through the Reeds
I went down for breakfast at around 7:30. Pretty much the usual hotel/pension fare. Four bread rolls, a plate of cold meat/cheese and coffee was served. Orange juice was a bottle on every table, there was a central section where apparently cereal, yoghurt and toast could be obtained, and there was a fruit basket mainly full of apples. I settled the bill with the proprietor, asked in advance about the possibility of doing laundry on Thursday afternoon, and proceeded to nab two of the rolls and an apple for lunch. About the only thing I didn’t avail myself of was Bild.

Back in the room the wifi didn’t seem to want to work, and I should have asked about it because it is going to be critical tomorrow in getting a bus to pick me up. Also the one card (the one with a double partition seems to have great difficulty in being recognised by Windows). In any case I had plenty of time to play with, and noticed that I could not find the glasses case anywhere. Just after 9:30 I was ready to go, first via the supermarket to redeem some empties, and then into town for a bit of sightseeing. Found some Greek restaurants down by the harbor, and walked back via the old market square, through an old gateway, and then across a park with ponds in the general direction of the station, and was there with a good ten – or should I say fifteen – minutes to spare, because the bus was accordingly late.

Today’s trip was puzzlingly familiar, as I was expecting it to take a good quarter of an hour more. I had put on the sunscreen, and placed my hat on the pack to do so, and when I saw Hohendorf coming up directly after Prohn, I started the GPS tracker and got ready to get out of the bus. First stop I pushed the button for was Siedlung (a suburb a couple of km down the road) and the bus driver recognised that I had wanted to go a bit further, and the next stop was Hauptstr., where I got on yesterday. Where the remaining fifteen minutes went, no idea. Anyway I was happy to be able to start walking earlier than planned, and in doing so lost the loose hat, which I promptly forgot on the bus, and almost just as promptly regretted not having put on my head.

Two losses in just as many days: Both due to non-standard procedures being applied.

Approaching Stralsund
Approaching Stralsund
Anyway the walk called out to be done. First it was across a couple of fields into the National Park once again, where there was a little more shade. I stopped once for some hydration, and then for lunch in Barhövt with its charming little harbor and hotels and other tourist infrastructure. I continued on the path through the forest for quite a bit before arriving in Klausdorf, then went through town until a map and some signs turned up. According to that map the E9 is identical with the Baltic Sea Cycle Route, and goes directly from Hohendorf to Klausdorf. The only ambiguity (with my choice of track) is whether to go through Klausdorf itself or bypass it to the east. In any case I was soon back down close to the waterfront on quite low-lying dikes, and enjoying the sun. I was expecting some track choices on either side of Parow, but none turned up. What was unhelpful was the varying distance to Stralsund that the signs were giving. In fact, there were no choices at all, and after the apple just before Parow, I was surprised that the distance to Stralsund was less than 6 km, almost directly on the coast itself.

Interactive Map

Back in town. GPS quality: 30/30, coverage: 100%
Can’t see map? Click here!

Stralsund in town
Stralsund in town
Plenty of geese on land, sea and in the air today, but not an opportunity to take a picture. A couple of pictures of other things, including Stralsund itself from the water front. I was considering going as far as the bridge today, but decided to go through town instead to see what else I could shoot. Tried to no avail to locate a telephone at the main station. Then some shopping needed to be done at Lidl which required a detour, then back to the pension, where the internet was working again.

After looking around for some eateries I thought that the closest Chinese place (Goldener Drachen, Rostocker Chaussee 2) would be the deal for this evening, if I am feeling up to it, there is an Indian place not far from the bus station that I could try tomorrow. Pork fried rice was a little more expensive than I’ve been used to (€11.3), but it was very tasty.

The plan for tomorrow will be: Try the internet first thing tomorrow after breakfast to see if I can skype the bus place for tomorrow’s return trip. If it is not working here, then go down to the supermarket to redeem empties and buy new stuff for hydration, and try the network there. Also I will need to get the address of the place I am staying with as well. Should look to leaving on the hike at before 9:00.


E9: Barth – Hohendorf

Tuesday, September 18: Hot and sunny, with some cirrus clouds and a strong land wind

Hiking: 27.3 km

Pension “Im Grünen”, Rostocker Chaussee 28, Stralsund (double as single, €38 per night, including breakfast, €5 booking fee)

I was up bright and early again, aiming for the 9:22 train, so that I would make everything in time today, including cleaning up the flat and stripping the bed before I left. First stop was the supermarket to return some bottles and get some fresh bread rolls (apparently someone had gone postal just before I got there, to judge from the broken bottles lying around, and the eventual arrival of the cops), and with that out of the way, breakfast (the last yoghurt, the last coffee) could be had, the remainder of the milk drunk and lunch prepared for the track.

As far as the eye can see
As far as the eye can see
Closing the drawer with the cutlery in it some piece of plastic flew across the room, which I later determined belonged to the now defunct peeler. Apart from that the packing, stripping and cleaning went well (swept the place out, but apart from a few grains of sand, nothing much) and was ready to go to meet my envisaged train. Was therefore pretty soon in Barth.

Took a couple more pictures of the church, then down to the harbour and along a country path past the youth hostel. I had seen and photographed a map in Barth and was surprised that the E9 (the latest official version that I downloaded last night) agreed entirely with one of the bike paths, including a bit of a variation just past Flemendorf Harbor. In any case it was over two quite high hills on the way to Dabitz Harbor where I stopped for an hydration break, then Flemendorf Harbor was soon visible, with its windmill. The last part was over the top of the dike and a bit adventurous for cyclists, so that when the harbor was reached the cyclists thankfully take the road on offer, whereas I made sure I stuck to the dike which seemed the way to go.

Fields near Hohendorf
Fields near Hohendorf
And it was, pretty much. The lunch stop was a small beach with quite a carpark, and plenty of picnic tables to the back drop of a number of people in the water flying kites (they didn’t seem to be on any kind of board, yet), but these were the type of kites that might lift you off the ground, if you weren’t in the water. Met a bloke who was also walking, then packed up and started on my further way. Every now and then there was a forest (which was good for shade) and the path was not entirely asphalted, which was a bit of relief for the feet.

In any case, I continued along the waterfront after lunch, although the official map directs you to a detour which in Google Earth is free range across farmland, which is probably not such a good idea. Anyway, there were no markers at all today, and the ones for the cycle paths seemed to be pretty scarce as well.

I soon reached Nisdorf, and then Kinnbackenhagen. Here there was a second detour, which appears to be doable, if only for the problem that a settlement of Finnish (A-frame) houses seem to be in the way, with one path being marked as “Not a public path”. In any case I was soon in Hohendorf, found a bus stop, but not the one I was looking for. A bus was due in a couple of minutes so I waited for it and asked the bus driver where the stop was and was directed to the main road, about 100&nbsp:m down a leafy avenue where I waited for the next half-hour. In the meantime I had seen “observation tower” posted, which could have been on the track that I hadn’t taken, because there was no other mention of it.

Interactive Map

Beside the Barther Bodden. GPS quality: 30/30, coverage: 100%
Can’t see map? Click here!

Was soon in town trying to find which bus line went down the Rostocker Chaussee – as far as I could see, none, which was puzzling until I started walking out of town and came across a gigantic construction site which would have put the end to any bus trying to get through. Identified a Chinese restaurant, where the Lidl supermarket is, and a Rewe with a bistro out the front, and finally the pension, all of the street numbers being on the other side of the street to what GE had shown me last night. Alice in the Looking Glass.

Once here, there was no one at the reception, so I pressed the bell and waited for a bit. Then what appeared to be a Polish construction worker offered me his phone to put a call through to the number displayed, and after mangling my name and my request for breakfast, I was “given” room 18, which had the key inside. Payment is at breakfast tomorrow.

Now I had to get a meal and some beer organised. Walked back along the street. Josis Bistro was just a Turkish place; the Chinese place had no menu on view; went past the Netto, discovered another two pizza places (one a drive-to) and could see the Lidl. Decided to take Josis for a pizza romantica (salami, ham and mushrooms) and a Fanta for €9.5. The pizza was originally crispy but degenerated very quickly. Will have to see about some real Greek tomorrow. Then to the supermarket for some drinks.

Back here queried two blokes about wifi and got some connection, although very iffy and unsecured. More of a motel here, than a pension, everything on ground level, parking lot in front of every unit. Curtains barely cover the windows and there is a light issue with lights from the neighboring plot and the carpark lighting.

E9: Prerow – Barth

Monday, September 17: Sunny with some high cloud, a little warmer

Hiking: 21.8 km

Marco’s

Old Bridge to Zingst
Old Bridge to Zingst

Was a little late off the starting block this morning, still had to get some bread rolls and filling for lunch before breakfast could begin, but that was soon dealt with, and everything packed away for today’s walk. This was going to be some time getting to, but wouldn’t be particularly long. I had gotten the directions by means of a screen shot onto the camera, and with the maps I felt fairly confident this would not be a hard day. Applying the sunscreen was left to be done on the bus.

Damm Gate, Barth
Damm Gate, Barth
Bus was reasonably on time and I showed my pass to begin with, with the intention of getting out and Dierhagen Intersection and waiting for the bus to return and buy the full ticket then. But that was not to be. Instead of going via Dändorf and the village (with the long extended return trip to Neuhaus) the bus went to Neuhaus directly, missing out on those two stops. As the driver stopped in Neuhaus, and there was no further advantage to be gained by waiting, I went up and ordered a ticket to Prerow; the driver then realised that he had a passenger with a ticket she didn’t want because she would have preferred to have a return or network ticket for the day, and had a ticket to Zingst that she would rather get rid of. I bought the ticket off her for €6.6 via the bus driver, and he issued her with a new ticket. Do not try this at home. Read more…

E9: Wustrow – Prerow

Sunday, September 16: Sunny and warmer, although still a little cloud about

Hiking: 25.0 km (with detour to the lighthouse)

Marco’s

Very peaceful setting here, some distance from any road, but the sun shining into the living room window got me to wake up and start doing something with the day, which was turning out to be better than yesterday.

Breakfast was the coffee with some fresh milk, the yoghurt and a bread roll with two slices of meat; then the lunch had to be made up and the pack packed for a satellite day, so apart from the lemonade it was rather light.

The bus seems to run late as a rule here, especially if the bus driver is not 100% with it. Today’s driver accepted my Kurkarte for the whole of the trip (which meant travelling without a ticket for the last three stops). Once in Wustrow I took off for the last km to the beach, and then along the beach for the first hour or so. I saw a map which had the E9 marked on it so I took a photo of today’s section, just in case.
A couple of photos of the sea along the way (mainly the dwarf coastal cliffs, and one section had been cordoned off with no one taking any notice at all), and in Ahrenshoop the track passes through the center of town (plenty of cyclists on the footpath, with no one attempting to get off and push) and then along the dike on the other side. No real markers, and the signs appeared to be a little out, although they could have been accurate if they were describing a cycle path that somehow went all around the place.

Once inside the national park, the bike path along the dike continued, and I had taken notice that one path would turn up that would lead to a carpark and a youth hostel, and that was not the turn to take, but one further. In any case signs started showing up with the lighthouse, Prerow and an intersection called the Great Star, so I knew I was moving along the right path.

Slide Show

Click on the image to stop/start the animation

The going was now a varied forest with plenty of shade, and still lots of cyclists. I stopped at the Great Star for lunch, as the signs seemed to be saying that Prerow and the lighthouse were both approximately equidistant at just over 6 km. Also the white-blue-white marker had turned up again, with no other interpretation allowed other than I had been on the right path all along. The path was dead straight from then on, until the last intersection where I had to decide whether or not to go to the lighthouse. Briefly looked at the watch and decided I had the time, so off I went.

The lighthouse itself was very well populated (today being a Sunday and good weather, not surprising), but not many good opportunities for a bracket, so I left it at a couple of single shots. Then back down towards town. Managed to overtake an extremely large group of walkers who were effectively blocking the rather narrow track by taking the guide track next to the horse and carriage track that was also in operation today. The markers had since disappeared again, so in town I was left to wander towards the main street, where a map was used to identify a bus stop. That being sorted, I went for an ice cream (mango and lemon) at the ubiquitous Janny’s.

Interactive Map

Along the Baltic shores. GPS quality: 30/30, coverage: 100%
Can’t see map? Click here!

The bus taking me back was surprisingly on time, and the driver had a much better attitude than what I had previously observed, and we kept pretty close to the timetable. For the record, the trip back was €6.2 as far as Dierhagen, where my free ticket took over. As far as I can work out from the VVR website, the whole trip should normally cost €8.2, so together with today’s fareless journey there, the savings today came to €5.1, which already exceeds the cost.

I was afraid I might run out of eateries, so once I was back and a bit washed I looked at Google maps, and discovered another Asian place at the station (Asia Wok). They had their hands full when I arrived just before 6:00, but I got an order in, and things settled down a little afterwards and I got my Peking soup with chicken fried rice in almost the time I sat around watching other restaurant guests yesterday. A variation on the Chinese takeaway is that these guys also do Döner in all its variations. In any case the soup was run-of-the-mill in price (€2.5), but the fried rice was almost sensational for €3.9, and the beer was €1.5, 50 cents cheaper than the beer at the Döner place last night. Don’t tempt me to compare the Döner prices.


E9: Rostock-Hohe Düne – Wustrow

Friday, September 14: About warm enough for the season, quite sunny with a few clouds

Ani’s (airbnb, €22.8), Rostock

Packing was quite organised today, with the new vanity bags coming into use, and everything being weighed. I cleaned up the flat as much as possible, and even got the ghost lighting to work after having found a manual on the web last night. The only thing that doesn’t appear to be working is the digital cable receiver. For the money: This will record to a hard disk, but not play from it; it will play from a memory stick if the .idx and .meta files are present; it gets totally confused if it tries to read from a card in a card adaptor (meaning it will be in standby, but never wakes up to find the card and start recording). Can’t someone test these things before they go online? I saw one on ebay for under €23, and real seemed to have some on sale next week for just over €30. I’ll see about that in the course of the week.

Anyway, what was forgotten in the packing seems to be very little: The mains-USB adapter (although I have the multi-USB adapter with me just in case), the ipod (last minute rush to get to the bus), and a pen. Hey, I was writing with one of those. That’s about it.

Caught a bus to the station, and there had been an accident at the tram exchange, with one tram spread-eagled across the road while police were out with measuring sticks protocolling everything. I thought the bus might be delayed just getting through the scene, but we were in good time for the train. A couple of minutes delay on the first train to Celle, about ten minutes on the further train to Lüneburg (made the 32-minute wait less demanding), then the trains to Büchen and onto Rostock were pretty much on time.

I was here after just over fifteen minutes walk, rang the doorbell at Ani’s, was surprised that someone answered (Christina and Martin, who are friends of the hostess and are also staying here), went upstairs past a welcoming committee that was smoking in the stairwell. Took a little while to determine where Ms Andres lived (turned out the ground floor, and hers was one of the few flats with a legible name on it), got my key as Christina and Martin made their way off to town.

Headed for the supermarket for something for breakfast tomorrow, found a coke can on the street which was redeemable to €0.25 (it’s come that far! Old man supplementing his pension by collecting deposit cans off the street!) and was back here by 8:00. Have sussed out where the necessary light switches are (with a bit of disco-style psychodelia in the hallway) and will spend the rest of the evening checking the pictures on the camera and charging batteries.

Saturday, September 15: Sunny and warm to begin with, becoming increasingly cloudy, with a drop of rain or two, and cooler. One stronger rain burst as I was waiting for the bus, but that was soon over

Hiking: 30.1 km

Marco’s (airbnb, €53/night)

The room didn’t have much in the way of curtains, and the view was that of some high-rise settlement on a distant hill to the east, which is where the sun rose, and me with it at just on 8:00. The other inhabitants were also motivated to get up and moving around, so that four people in the very small kitchen was quite a crowd, yet we managed all to have our breakfasts and perform our ablutions without so much as getting on anyone’s toes.

I was soon packed and ready to go. The trains were every fifteen minutes, so there was no hurry, but I tried aiming for the 9:18. In hindsight it would have been better to catch one of the trams for the final two stops, because then I would have had a ticket for all the way to Warnemünde at no extra cost, but with some saving in time. By the time I got to the station it was 9:15, and two couples had occupied the two ticket machines and were humming and hawing about what they wanted to do next with them leaving me the only alternative of going to the ticket counter and trying to get a ticket before the train left. Got the ticket, remembered to ask whether it had to be validated or not, and had just climbed to the top of the stairs to see that last of the train leaving. Found a validation machine in good time for the next train.

Once out in Warnemünde I took a very roundabout way to the ferry (puzzled at why there should be two routes, but one went down a tunnel, the other was on level ground. In any case I reached the ferry (with a ticket) as it was about to leave. Took a couple of pictures of a yacht on the short journey, and off on the other side set down the pack to restart the GPS, sort out the glasses, and generally try to make sense of the maps on the camera.

Slide Show

Click on the image to stop/start the animation

Today was not a day for a lot of markings on the track; on the road into Markgrafenheide a couple of signs showed up, but then as the path left the road, the same symbol was also shown going into town. At a holiday village the signs insisted on going some distance inland before returning to the beach, and here there was a sign that said that the path to Graal-Müritz was either the bicycle path (longer) or the E9 (shorter but 1 km along the beach). I ended up doing most of it along the dunes and then the beach, and there were no signs visible from the beach. Just into Müritz I stopped for lunch, and out the other side I came across a marker again, with a sign that said 14 km from Hohe Düne and 15 to go to Wustrow (after 3:25, at 13:42), which I thought was a bit tight for getting the bus. I tried to keep up the pace for the rest of the track, but it seems like the sign was a little bit biased in the opposite direction (it was in fact 16.3 from Hohe Düne, leaving just under 14 to Wustrow).

By now I was following the bicycle track come what may. The number of walkers decreased bit by bit, and the number of cyclists increased. After reaching Neuhaus and Dierhagen Strand the distances to Wustrow seemed more reasonable and indeed doable without any panic at the last moment.

Access to the beach was measured at around every 200 m, and eventually Wustrow came into view. I ignored the first sign pointing towards the center, because I wanted to reach the pier at least before retiring to the bus, and pretty soon Strandstr was reached, which was the end of today’s walk. I trudged up the street to the main road, found the bus stop immediately and had half an hour to kill, some of which was taken up by eating an apple. Then it started to rain. At first only a couple of drops, but then it was cats and dogs. One woman also waiting for the bus set up camp in the bus stop, followed by two other women, then a couple of bicycles. Swarms of hundreds of swallows passed overhead every now and then, despite the rain, but probably surfing on the wind.

Interactive Map

Start on the final stretch along the Baltic Sea. GPS quality: 30/30, coverage: 100%
Can’t see map? Click here!

The bus was late, and the following journey didn’t make up any for time. By the time we had reached Ribnitz, the delay was over half an hour. I had a brief look at a map to refresh my memory of where Marco’s place was, and was soon there. The holiday unit has an entrance at the back of his place, so we walked through past the bunnies and there I was. First thing was to check the internet, couldn’t find the password, but could see a guest access, so I went around the outside back to his place. The password was above the coat rack, the last place I would have thought of (instead of in the useful tips for guests). Anyway got my internet, then set off for the shops to get some stuff for tomorrow.

I had seen a Rewe supermarket on my way to the flat, the nearest Lidl was beyond Wustrow. I managed however to get the full refund for the Lidl cans from yesterday, bought some beer (will have to try out a couple of six packs of Störtebeker’s craft beers just for fun), then with nearly everything set off for dinner.

This was not easy. The Vietnamese place I first tried (Lotus) had three very dysfunctional staff who just weren’t getting anything done. I was left without a menu for the entire time I was seated. Several couples sitting around me had become so bored with waiting for their orders to be taken that they repeatedly opened and closed the menus for a bit of light relief (and in the time I sat there, only one couple’s order was taken). The guy who was collecting the money was having an awfully hard time getting the bills straightened out and one woman came not once but twice to the front counter to pay, and was sent back to her table on both occasions, although it appeared that she had paid on leaving shortly after the second incident. I nabbed the payment guy to ask him to give me one of the menus he was toting around and when he started with, “Just a moment,” I judged it time to leave.

The next place I visited wasn’t much better (Akropolis) – not even the empty table was on offer, nor the place after that: Paganini – the waiter didn’t make much of an attempt to find any space and suggested taking a table outside. Well, smartarse, if I’d wanted a table outside I wouldn’t have gone inside to ask.

The number of available and visible places was becoming fewer. In the end I tried the Hanse Grill (Südlicher Rosengarten) which after some discussion with the waiter I was able to get a moderate-size döner with salad, bread and a beer for €9. That will do. Then it was back to the supermarket for tomorrow’s yoghurt and two bottles of lemonade for the walk.

Was back here in time for the news. The better weather is due at the beginning of the week. Nice, but very small place here, will do for one, and can use the Kurkarte to get a little off the bus tickets in the following days.



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