I wanted to let you know about a way cool, really fun and educational skeptics trip to Borneo this summer, being organized by Skeptic magazine Editorial Board member and USC professor of science education, Dr. William McComas, who, in conjunction with the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County is leading a journey to one of the most fascinating and remote corners of the world - the island of Borneo.
This region is interesting both for its natural and its political history. The vast primeval rain forests of Borneo hold some of the world's most interesting flora and fauna. We will enter the domain of the orangutans in their lowland forest sanctuary of Sepilok, and search for them in the wilds during our travels in the interior of the world's third-largest island. During our trip we will be on the lookout for a variety of carnivorous plants, countless orchid varieties, flying lizards, the long-nosed proboscis monkeys, gibbons, macaque, and the three-foot-wide flowers of the rafflesia.
On this adventure we will visit Sabah and Sarawak, now two states of Malaysia. Sarawak was once the private realm of rajah James Brooke, who, in 1841, was rewarded with this little corner of the globe when he helped put down a local rebellion with understanding and compassion for the natives. This so impressed the local sultan that he was named rajah of the province. His heirs held sway as rulers for one hundred years.
Sarawak is also one of the key areas where Alfred Russel Wallace developed his theory of evolution by means of natural selection, when he noted the biogeographical distribution of species in this richly varied part of the globe. Shortly after his visit to Sarawak in 1858 he fired off a letter and essay to his friend back in England, a fellow named Charles Darwin, who promptly wrote Charles Lyell, Joseph Hooker, and others, asking what to do since it appeared this Wallace guy was going to scoop his two decades of work. The result was the famed July 1, 1858 Linnean Society meeting in which both Wallace’s and Darwin’s essays were read into the record. Darwin, now motivated, completed a shortened version of his “big species book,” retitled it “On the Origin of Species....” and the rest, as they say, is history. So you will be visiting a very historically significant place indeed in Sarawak.
In addition to the indigenous and unique wildlife, we will also be privileged to be invited into the world of the Iban as we spend several nights in a rustic traditional longhouse. Join us on an extraordinary trip along winding rivers and jungle trails, in a part of the world that few have explored.
Here are the details of the trip provided by Bill McComas:
August 1-17, 1999
Borneo, the third-largest island in the world, is one of the last unspoiled places on Earth. Some of its vast, trackless forests are older than those of the Amazon or Congo. It boasts the tallest mountain between the Himalayas and New Guinea, and one of the richest floras in the world. And in its lowland forests live some of the last of the great apes, the remarkably human-like orangutans. In the northern Malaysian state of Sabah, we’ll visit the Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary to see them up close, then travel into the interior to search for them in the wild. We’ll travel by boat along inland waterways, and by foot through jungle trails. In the state of Sarawak, we’ll travel into the interior of Borneo on a special river journey and spend two nights at a traditional Iban longhouse. Accommodations will range from luxurious hotels, to comfortable jungle lodges, to rustic quarters at the Iban longhouse.
Itinerary
August 1-2-3, Los Angeles - Kota Kinabalu (Sabah, Borneo) Our adventure begins today as we depart on our Malaysian Airlines flight to Kota Kinabalu, gateway to Borneo’s northern Malaysian State of Sabah. A day is lost as we cross the International Dateline. We will arrive in the city of Kota Kinabalu on the morning of August 3, and have the rest of the day at leisure. Kota Kinabalu is a coastal city with interesting night markets and good food. For an excellent introduction to Malaysia, visit the Sabah Museum, with its collection of ethnological treasures. You'll find galleries of tribal artifacts, contemporary handicrafts, natural-history dioramas, and exhibits on the different peoples of Sabah. Overnight at the Tanjung Aru Hotel, a beautiful resort hotel located on the water just south of the city. (meals on the plane)
August 4, Kota Kinabalu / Offshore Island Excursion Within sight of our hotel is a series of beautiful islands that form Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park, which we will visit on a day trip. We’ll first travel to Gaya Island, where we'll follow a boardwalk through mangroves and tropical forest. Monkeys and squirrels are commonly seen and, with any luck, we might spot a group of bearded pigs. A large number of birds inhabit the island, such as the sky megapode, white-bellied sea eagle, pied hornbill, and green pigeon. Later we’ll travel to nearby Sapi Island for a barbecue lunch and relaxation. Casuarina trees sway over the white sand beaches, and the water is crystal clear, making it ideal for snorkeling. In the afternoon we’ll return to the hotel.
This evening we'll drive up Signal Hill for a view of the city by night. After a stop at the colorful night market of clothing, antiques, and handicrafts, we'll visit a local restaurant for dinner and a cultural performance. Overnight at the Tanjung Aru Hotel.
August 5, Mount Kinabalu We leave early in the morning on our scenic journey to Mount Kinabalu, the highest mountain between Everest and New Guinea. Its solid granite peak stands virtually alone above the forests, making it seem even higher than 13,455 feet. The forested slopes, often shrouded in mist, hold a treasure of fauna and flora. There are more than 500 species of birds, including warblers, flycatchers, sunbirds, barbets, and drongos, some of which are quite tame. Vegetation zones vary with altitude, ranging from lowland jungle to montane oak, conifer forests, and dwarf rhododendron thickets, making the park one of the richest flora areas in the world. Of particular interest here are the 1000 species of wild orchids and the many varieties of carnivorous pitcher plants, of which there are several varieties. There are well-marked forest trails at the lower levels of the park that you can easily explore on your own. Overnight at the nearby Perkasa Kundasang Hotel, situated at about 5,000 feet elevation.
Note: If you are interested, you can hike up the mountain this afternoon with a local guide. You'll climb to the Fourth Shelter, at a height of about 8,500 feet, then return to the hotel for the night. This is a hike, not a technical climb, but you must be in good physical condition to do it. Further details will be sent upon enrollment, so that you can decide if you would like to sign up for this option.
August 6, Mount Kinabalu / Poring Hot Springs / Canopy Walkway We’ll make an excursion today to the Poring Hot Springs, located in the tropical lowland rain forest. On the way, we’ll perhaps stop to purchase some durian fruit, said to be the worst smelling and best tasting fruit in the world. We’ll sample some exotic fruits that are sold along the roadside as well. Then it's on to Poring, where the sulfur springs have been diverted into seven baths, set amid beautiful gardens. (Bring your bathing suit if you'd like a relaxing soak.) We’ll explore the jungle trails here, walk on the Canopy Walkway, and visit the Kipungit Waterfall. Near here also is the Tambunan Rafflesia Centre, which we may visit if we learn of any rafflesia in bloom. These flowers are the largest in the world, sometimes measuring several feet across. Their odor of rotting flesh is designed to attract pollinating insects. Although rare and short-lived when they bloom, they are sometimes seen in this area. In the afternoon we’ll return to the Perkasa Kundasang Hotel in the highlands of Mount Kinabalu.
August 7, Mount Kinabalu - Sandakan Today we'll make our way overland to Sandakan, a town on the eastern coast of Borneo. Our leisurely drive winds through the highlands of Sabah, through quiet villages, rice paddies, and palm-oil plantations. Along the way we'll witness the ravages of the once-booming timber industry, which fell off in the mid-80s when overlogging exhausted the local forests. We'll reach Sandakan this afternoon, and check in to our hotel. Once the capital of North Borneo, Sandakan's harbor bustles like a smaller version of Hong Kong, with Chinese merchants trading goods from the interior, such as timber, copra, palm oil and birds' nests, used by the Chinese for making soup. Overnight at the Sandakan Renaissance Hotel.
August 8, Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary / Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary We'll spend today with some of the most fascinating primates in the world. This morning we'll visit the Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary, just outside of Sandakan. Literally translated as man of the forest, orangutans today are an endangered species due to the destruction of their habitat by logging and deforestation. Sepilok's objective is to reintroduce captured or orphaned orangutans into the wild, by giving them freedom in their natural habitat so their innate survival instincts return. The sanctuary offers a unique chance to see these fascinating apes at close range. Other protected wildlife such as gibbons, macaques, Malay sun bears, and wild cats are often brought here as well, to be looked after until they can be reintroduced back into the jungle.
Our lodge is a 15-minute ride up the Kinabatangan River. We'll take some time to get settled in here, then take a two-hour river cruise into the Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary. Orangutans are always the highlight of any Borneo forest, and the Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary has the highest concentration of orangs in all of Malaysia. It is also home to proboscis monkeys, long-tailed macaques, leaf monkeys, and gibbons. We'll overnight at the Sukau Rainforest Lodge. Built in a traditional Malaysian style, the lodge offers a winning blend of comfort and solitude. Each room has a solar-powered ceiling fan, comfortable twin beds, and a private, attached bath with solar-heated water.
August 9, Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary / Sukau Rainforest Lodge We’ll continue our explorations of this fascinating area today, with jungle walks and river journeys. We’ll explore a variety of areas, including an ox-bow lake, in search of hairy-nosed otters and hornbills. Also inhabiting this area, though very rare, are Asian elephant and Sumatran rhinoceros, and if we are lucky we might catch a glimpse of one. The more adventurous among us can climb to observation platforms high in the trees for glimpses of life in the canopy, where the density and diversity of wildlife is most pronounced. We will also venture out during the evening with our expert guides to discover the wildlife that remains hidden during the day. Overnight at Sukau Rainforest Lodge.
August 10-11, Gomantong Caves / Borneo Rainforest Lodge This morning we will drive to the Gomantong Caves, famous for their bird nests. Ladders reach to the upper levels of these tall caves, where swiftlets make nests that are harvested for birds-nest soup, a Chinese delicacy. Then we'll make our way further into the heart of Borneo, to the Borneo Rainforest Lodge, on the shores of the Danum River. Our two hour drive to the lodge will take us through logged and regenerating forest areas, giving us a perspective on the challenges facing conservation in this unique region, as well as some of the possible solutions.
The forests along the Danum Valley are home to an impressive variety of wildlife. It supports one of the largest remaining populations of orangutan. Widely ranging, with at most only a couple of individuals per square mile, they are not always easy to see, although the research conducted here gives our experienced trackers increased odds of success. Guided treks include walks through undisturbed riverine forest, lowland forest, and along an escarpment with dramatic views of one of the best remaining orangutan habitats.
While impressive animals like gibbons and giant flying squirrels can be seen and heard, with much of the wildlife a patient approach is required to discover the amazing diversity of life in a tropical rain forest. Our naturalist guides are well versed in the mysteries of the region and will direct our exploration to maximize our opportunities. With their help, we may even spot such rarities as elephant, rhino, or the great argus pheasant. There is also an elevated walkway 300 feet up in the canopy of the forest. The walkway gives us a bird’s-eye view that includes some of the world’s largest butterflies and moths.
Our accommodations will be at the Borneo Rainforest Lodge, which combines comfort, privacy, and good food with a great location. The central lodge, built of local ironwood, features a spacious verandah, dining area, and bar. Meals are served with both Asian and Western menus. Twin bungalows, or sulaps, are designed after traditional Sabah/Kadazan Dusun dwellings. Each has electricity, an attached bath, and a private verandah overlooking the Danum River. Authentic traditional furnishings enhance the comfortable atmosphere.
August 12, Danum Valley Field Centre - Kuching (Sarawak) Today we'll visit the Danum Valley Field Centre, where scientists study many aspects of Borneo's forests. We will see forests in varying stages of regeneration after timber harvesting, and nurseries where native tree seedlings are being grown for enrichment planting. With our widespread concern for the future of the world's tropical forests, this is a unique opportunity to see first-hand some of the problems and potential solutions in action.
Our next stop is Lahad Datu, a prosperous Chinese town of 20,000, set on the Bay of Darvel. Here we'll catch a plane back to Kota Kinabalu for the connecting flight to Kuching, the quiet riverine capital of Sarawak. Known as the Land of the Hornbill, Sarawak is the second Malaysian state cut out of the northern reaches of Borneo. Sarawak's quarreling tribes were peacefully brought together here by the British adventurer James Brooke, in the last century. He and his successor, his nephew Charles, were known as the White Rajas. They ruled Sarawak as benevolent despots until 1941. It was near Kuching that Darwin’s contemporary Alfred Russel Wallace compiled his first paper on natural selection. Under the influence of Wallace, the second raja built the Sarawak Museum, in 1891. Overnight at the Holiday Inn Damai Beach, a luxury resort just north of Kuching, surrounded by beach and mountains.
August 13, Bako National Park Today we will journey by boat to Bako National Park, situated on a peninsula at the mouth of the Sarawak River. At ten square miles, Bako is a relatively small area of primary rain forest, the oldest in Borneo, which makes it older than the forests of the Amazon and the Congo. The forest is bordered on both sides by a picturesque coastline of sandy bays and steep cliffs with pink and iron sandstone patterns. The beaches are perfect for swimming and the rocky coves provide safe havens and fine hunting grounds for kingfishers, sunbirds, and reef egrets. The rain forest is home to beautiful insect-eating flowers and plants, and to small animals such as the long-nosed monkey, pigs, and sambar deer. You may even see the sambar deer on the beach during daylight hours. Proboscis monkeys inhabit this area as well. We'll explore the park's trails with our local guide to learn about the natural history of this remarkable forest. Overnight at the Holiday Inn Damai Beach.
August 14-15, Interior of Sarawak / Longhouse visit Today we will journey into the jungles of the interior. We drive to the Skrang River, where motorized dugouts are waiting to take us down the river. Our destination is an Iban longhouse, a large dwelling set on ironwood stilts that comfortably houses an entire village. The rooms of the longhouse are set side by side, all facing a long hall used for leisurely activities such as wood carving and weaving. The Ibans are former headhunters (the practice died out decades ago), and they make their living by fishing, hunting, and growing rice. There will be opportunities for photography, birding, and excursions by dugout. You can swim in the river, learn how to use a blowpipe, and take part in daily life. In the evening, we will be honored and entertained with music and dance. Our accommodations will be in a guest longhouse that has been built for visitors. We will have dormitory-style sleeping quarters, with foam mattresses, sheets, and rustic showers. Our guide will cook rice, meat, and vegetables, and will bring cold drinks in a cooler.
August 16, Interior - Kuching This morning we'll have a last look at the jungle and waterfalls nearby, then retrace our route back to Kuching. We'll stop for a jungle picnic along the way, complete with bamboo-steamed rice served on plates made of jungle leaves. This evening, we'll have a special farewell dinner to celebrate our adventures in this unique and fascinating land. Overnight at the Holiday Inn Damai Beach.
August 17, Kuching Los Angeles This morning we will depart on our flight to Kuala Lampur, to connect with a flight on to Los Angeles. (meals on plane)
SINGAPORE EXTENSION ($595)
August 17, Kuching - Singapore
We’ll fly to Singapore today, by way of Kuala Lumpur. After checking into our hotel, we’ll have a short tour of the city. Places of interest include the famous Raffles Hotel, among whose frequent guests were Somerset Maugham and Rudyard Kipling (and where the Singapore Sling was invented), and the Temple of a Thousand Lights in Chinatown. Overnight at the Orchard Hotel.
August 18, Singapore This morning we’ll visit to the Singapore Zoological Gardens, an exceptionally fine zoo that will offer us the opportunity to see many species of endangered animals from Southeast Asia. One of the highlights here will be our “breakfast with the orangutans.”
Afterward, we’ll make an excursion to the huge Jurong Bird Park for a close-up look at the bird life of Asia. The park has more than 3,000 species of birds, including the world’s last red birds of paradise, and boasts the world’s largest walk-in aviary, with a waterfall that’s 100 feet tall. Overnight at the Orchard Hotel.
August 19, Singapore We'll visit the Singapore Botanical Gardens this morning, with its 79 acres of plantings amid wide sweeps of lawn, lake, and jungle. Singapore is one of the world's leading orchid exporters, so there is a special orchid enclosure with some 250 species on display. You'll have the afternoon free to explore on your own. This evening, we'll say farewell on a dinner cruise in Singapore's bustling harbor. Overnight at the Orchard Hotel.
August 20, Singapore - Los Angeles We’ll leave this morning on our flight home, arriving on the same day. (meals on the plane)
Tour Cost - $2,795 Based on two people sharing accommodations and a minimum of 16 participants. If there are 8-15 participants, add $200 per person. Singapore Extension Price - $595 Air Cost - $1,225 from Los Angeles
The Trip Price Includes
Transportation
Flights within Asia, all land and boat transport for scheduled excursions.
Your Host
BILL McCOMAS is member of the Skeptics Journal Advisory Board and is a professor at the Rossier School of Education of the University of Southern California. At USC he directs the Center to Advance Science Education. He teaches courses in educational research, issues in science education, advanced scienceteaching methods, and the philosophy of science for graduate students in science teacher education. His recently completed book, The Nature of Science in Science Education, has just been published, to add to a previous book, Investigating Evolutionary Biology in the Laboratory. In addition to his scientific background in biology and geology, Bill is also a professional photographer specializing in natural history images. His work has included assignments to ecology research sites throughout Central America and the United States, and he would be glad to offer tips to the photographers on our voyage. His has traveled extensively throughout the world, including visits to southern Borneo and other areas in the tropics of Southeast Asia. He is looking forward to discovering the wilds of Malaysia on this upcoming expedition.
Accommodations and Meals
Most meals are included. Consult the itinerary for a list of meals provided, indicated at the end of each day. Prices are based on two people sharing accommodations.
Miscellaneous Fees and Tips
Hotel service charges and government taxes are included in the tour price. Park entry fees and local guide fees are included.
The Price does not include: International air fare, air fare taxes, and foreign airport departure taxes. All items of a personal nature, such as laundry, phone calls, room service, and beverages. Optional tips to your guides. A few meals are not included; please consult the itinerary for details.
A passport is required to travel, but currently no visas are required of U.S. citizens.
The tour price is based upon two persons sharing a room. Single rooms are available at a supplementary cost during some of the trip, but are not available during the longhouse visit. Single rooms in other locations will be requested but cannot be guaranteed. Please consult the reservation form for the single room supplement rate.
For further information or for a hard copy brochure, please contact Voyagers International and ask for the LA Museum/Skeptics trip to Borneo:
Voyagers Internationa
P.O. Box 91
Ithaca, NY 14851 US
Ph: 607-273-432
(800) 633—029
Fax: 607-273-3873