{"id":261,"date":"2013-01-08T17:58:32","date_gmt":"2013-01-08T16:58:32","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.skeptic.de\/blog.multi\/kiwi4\/?p=261"},"modified":"2023-09-23T19:56:52","modified_gmt":"2023-09-23T19:56:52","slug":"camera-extras","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/leetraynor.com\/blog.multi\/kiwi4\/?p=261","title":{"rendered":"Camera Extras"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Back: two solar filters, one lens cap. Front: UV\/pol filter<\/p><\/div>\n

Youtube Video<\/a><\/h5>\n

With the camera now functioning like it cost ten times the price thanks to the possibilities of CHDK, it was time to look at a couple of hardware issues.<\/p>\n

Filters.<\/strong> A polarisation filter is a major game-changer, as anyone wearing polarised sunglasses can tell, because it cuts down reflection from water and glassy surfaces and thus also the haze in the air that washes out detail at large distances. With a pol filter the sky is bluer, the grass is greener, and the hills are closer. The only trouble is attaching filters to digital cameras, which often don\u2019t come with a thread or other mounting device.<\/p>\n

For very small cameras (such as the A470) there is a magnetic solution, whereby a ring magnet is stuck onto the end of the lens and the filter attaches to the ring; however, filter size is limited to a diameter of 22 mm. For the other cameras whose lens barrel has a diameter of 43 mm, another solution had to be found. PVC plumbing is too wide but the inner diameter can be reduced by gluing small pieces of rubber onto the inside. Another solution is to use a yoghurt cup and cut it down to the right size. Fits snugly, holds the filter robustly and is very lightweight. Watch the video:<\/p>\n