39. Milford Track, Day 4

Dumpling – Sandfly Point (22.1 km)
Steamers Beach (see March 6, 2013)
Wednesday, March 13: Some low cloud at first, clearing with dramatic cloud patches left behind. In Te Anau hot
GPS Track
Youtube video
Mackay Falls, exposure bracket

Mackay Falls, exposure bracket

A few were up from 6:30 onwards, and Andrea & Kobi seemed to have difficulty getting up at their 6:45 target; but in any case I had enjoyed a restful night’s sleep and was pretty much ready to go. Only Franklin had started snoring once, but I woke him and got him to turn on his side; and the Belgian guy did snore very softly and it was over when he turned. The Israeli guys were impeccable. All in all we were about 95% snore-free which, for an impromptu revolt, was not bad. Continue reading

38. Milford Track, Day 3

Mintaro – Dumpling Hut (18.5 km)
Tuesday, March 12: Some low cloud at first, afterwards sunny throughout
GPS Track
Youtube video
Fog blankets the Clinton Valley in the early morning

Fog blankets the Clinton Valley in the early morning

The republic of non-snorers had its first success last night; except for one snorer who had slipped in, and Mark who snored a little around 6:00, we were 90% or more snore-free.

Waterfall on the way down from Mackinnon Pass, close to the Roaring Burn

Waterfall on the way down from Mackinnon Pass, close to the Roaring Burn

So the wake-up call was just after 6:00 when people started to congregate in the kitchen. Had my breakfast and let most people leave before me, before brushing my teeth and sending an OK with the spot. Just after a couple of posh hikers arrived to check out our digs, I took off up the track. Continue reading

37. Milford Track, Day 2

Clinton – Mintaro Hut (20.6 km), excursion to Mackinnon Pass (8.0 km)
Monday, March 11: Cloudy at first, with a few drops of rain, later mainly sunny with a few clouds
GPS Track
Youtube Video
Whio (“blue duck” – Hymenolaimus malacorhynchos) wading in the Clinton River

Whio (“blue duck” – Hymenolaimus malacorhynchos) wading in the Clinton River

Was up at 6:00 – surprisingly snore-free night, although the other hut had copped more than its share of snorers – and had breakfast with Alissa (student of landscape architecture) before most people were out and about. Packed up my stuff and was away just after 8:00, after sending an OK with the spot tracker & getting a satellite fix for the GPS. First partner was Franklin (engineer from New York) and then we caught up with Alissa who was visiting all of the ponds. Lots of shots of robins playing around and saw a whio flying at a pool @ 4 miles. Continue reading

36. Milford Track, Day 1

Glade Wharf – Clinton Hut (7.1 km)
Sunday, March 10: Cloud at first, then mainly sunny apart from one cloudy period
GPS Track
Youtube Video
Bridge over the River Clinton at Glade Lodge

Bridge over the River Clinton at Glade Lodge

Up at 7:30, which was cutting it fairly fine, especially after the cooked breakfast of baked beans from some abandoned food and fried eggs took about twice as long to prepare as it should have, due to the defective can opener. Continue reading

35. Kepler Track Walk-On

Kepler Track: Te Anau – snowline and back: 29.6 km
Steamers Beach
Saturday, March 9: Cloudy at first, clearing, with a weaker wind
GPS Track
Youtube Video
Lake Te Anau redux. Tree on the right has taken a bit of a hit, and the perspective has changed a little, but eminently recognisable

Lake Te Anau redux. Tree on the right has taken a bit of a hit, and the perspective has changed a little, but eminently recognisable

Consulting the maps this morning revealed that the row to the Monument might take longer than expected, so I chose the Kepler Walk-On instead, meaning to go all the way from Te Anau as far as I could, but starting as early as possible, rather than at one in the afternoon. Went to the DoC, booked my transfers and picked up my tickets for the Milford Track tomorrow, and was ready to go by 10:00.

On the way to the control point I teamed up with a young Japanese nurse, Yoya, and got on well with her for the rest of the day. Continue reading

34. Te Anau

Steamers Beach
Friday, March 8: A few clouds at first, then sunny and warm apart from a cold wind

Today was the day for odds & ends. Found some washing powder, washed what I could and hung it up on the line to dry. In addition to my own seven washing pegs, I used another seven that I found on the clothesline. Think that a total of around twenty should suffice in future. Then washed the boots and put them up as well. Continue reading

33. Dore’s Pass, Lake Marian

Steamers Beach
Thursday, March 7: Cloudy for most of the day, sun in the evening
GPS Track
Marian Falls

Marian Falls

Was on the road a little after 9:00 and found the beginning of the route just after 10:00. Parked the car at Smithy’s Creek campsite, applied sufficient DEET, and started off hopefully down the road. Crossing the river was the least part of the problem – it was only knee-deep, but very cold. The real problem was hiking up the creek – small rocks and pebbly beaches giving rise to boulders and becoming steeper the further up the mountain I proceeded. After about an hour of this I decided to call it a day, as there was no way I was going to repeat this with a full pack and possibly less time. At least the boots got a good wash. This would probably only be a good idea with someone who had done it before and knew which turn to take at the top of the mountain, although you will still have to be very desperate to try it. Continue reading

32. Queenstown – Te Anau

Steamers Beach Backpackers @ Lakeview Holiday Park, 77 Manapouri – Te Anau Hwy, Te Anau. $33 per night, single room with desk
Wednesday, March 6: Sunny at first, clouding over, with about two drops of rain, becoming sunny with a stiff south-westerly wind

Was ready to go just after 9:00 but first had to fill in a census form. Then it was pretty much directly out to Te Anau, with a stop for petrol in Frankton, and a short break along the way. Spotted the Kingston Flyer at one of the stations. Continue reading

31. Wanaka – Cromwell – Queenstown

Southern Laughter, 4 Isle St. $50 double as single, room only
Tuesday, March 5: Very sunny and warm with a bit of cloud turning up during the afternoon
GPS Track
Lake Wanaka, detail of the panorama

Lake Wanaka, detail of the panorama

Was off to the DoC at around 10:00 this morning to see what I could do in or around Mt Aspiring. Unfortunately there had been an issue with security at the end of the road carpark, and there being no surveillance, my plans for doing the Rob Roy at least were quashed. Decided I would go down to the end of the road anyway, if not to walk, then to be in the company of the mountains. I had been warned that the road was a little “juddery”. Turned out it was completely shot to bits, so not much chance of risking the car for those 30 kms. Went back to the Rocky Mountain/Lake Diamond/Lake Wanaka views car park and marched up the hill from there. Continue reading

30. Greymouth – Hokitika – Ross – Glaciers – Haast – Wanaka

Aspiring Campervan Park, 263 Studholme Rd, $65 for kitchen cabin
Monday, March 4: Cloudy at first, short rain bursts and some drizzle near the glaciers, clearing
GPS Track

Was up bright and early and down into town to solve the “hot shoe/quick release” problem. The Kodak place did have one, but not the right size. Dick Smith had an ultra light tripod which automatically unfolds (0.6 kg) but was nearly $60 so I opted for the cheapest one from the Warehouse. Not bad, has two spirit levels and is quite tall so that I can stand, rather than stoop, crouch or squat, while using it. Continue reading