For those interested here is a terrific trip to the Galapagos islands being organized by Skeptic magazine board member Dr. William McComas, who has been putting on such trips for over a decade to much fanfare and great success. I encourage you all to take a look at this trip since it is to the Mecca of evolutionary biology.
Michael Shermer
July 5-17, 2000, sponsored by the Skeptics Society, the California Science Center and the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County
As a scientist and educator, the Galapagos hold a special fascination for me. Situated on the equator some 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador, the Galapagos have been called a "living laboratory of natural history." Over the centuries, animal and plant life from the Americas reached the islands and gradually evolved into new forms, many found nowhere else on earth. A visit here led Charles Darwin to his theory of evolution, as he observed the small but crucial variations in species from island to island.
The Galapagos today remain isolated and relatively untouched. Here you can be at one with nature as nowhere else. Animals have no fear of humans - birds light on your arm, curious sea lions come to get acquainted, penguins join you for a swim.
We've designed a special extended itinerary for our members and friends that will provide an in-depth experience of the natural history of these remarkable islands. This will enable us to visit more islands during our cruise, then spend several days based on the island of Santa Cruz, home to the Charles Darwin Research Station. Most visitors stop here during their cruise for a morning visit to the station. We'll spend three full days here, with plenty of time to explore the diverse ecological zones of the island, take a behind-the-scenes tour of the Darwin Station, venture up into the highlands, and search for tortoises in the wild. This is a rare opportunity to learn more about the possibilities and problems facing Galapagos today.
I have visited the Galapagos and led groups there several times, and know them well. I look forward to returning to these magical islands, and to sharing this unique experience with you.
Space is limited, so let us know as soon as possible if you can join us for this exciting adventure!
Best wishes,
William McComas, Ph.D.
University of Southern California
Los Angeles - Quito
We depart from Los Angeles today, and fly to Quito, Ecuador. At 9,000-feet elevation, Quito is one of the world's highest capitals. We'll arrive this evening, and be taken to the Hotel Sebastian for the night. Recently built to reflect the style and flavor of Ecuador, the Sebastian is a charming European-style 4-star hotel located in a neighborhood of shops and cafes in the heart of Quito. (meals on the plane.)
Mitad del Mundo
We'll drive north from Quito this morning to the Mitad del Mundo, the "middle of the Earth." It's also known as the Equator, from which Ecuador gets its name. Here you'll find exhibits from France, Spain, Germany, and Ecuador; a hand-made scale replica of colonial Quito; and a typical Ecuadorian town, complete with its own plaza and bullfighting ring. Within the monument itself is a wonderful little museum on the 18 indigenous cultures of Ecuador. Climb the stairs to the top for a great view of the surrounding volcanoes, then follow the winding stairs back down through the exhibit. You'll have the morning to explore and take the obligatory photos of yourselves straddling the equator, then have lunch nearby, before heading back to Quito this afternoon. Overnight at the Sebastian. (b,l)
San Cristóbal Island / Ochoa Beach
This morning we fly from Quito to San Cristóbal Island, the capital of the Galapagos. We'll get situated on board our boat, then visit nearby Ochoa Beach for our introduction to life on these islands. Here we'll find, up close and personal, one of the most popular and endearing creatures in Galapagos-the sea lions.
Each day we'll spend the morning exploring an island, then return to the boat for lunch. Early afternoons are for relaxing, as we sail on to the next destination for an afternoon shore excursion. Each evening after dinner, our guides will brief us on the next day's activities, the animals we'll see, and the conditions we'll encounter. (b,l,d)
Tower (Genovesa) Island
Tower is a low volcano barely breaking the surface of the ocean. Ships sail directly into its large breached caldera to anchor at the foot of the steep crater walls. Known as "The Bird Island," it attracts vast numbers of seabirds who come here to nest. Great frigate birds, red-footed boobies, swallow-tailed gulls, and storm petrels breed here by the thousands. A trail leads past tidal lagoons where lava gulls and yellow-crowned night herons are seen, then along the low shrubs populated by frigates and boobies, and eventually to a cliff edge where seabirds soar. (b,l,d)
Cerro Dragon / Rabida Island
Cerro Dragon, on the northwest coast of Santa Cruz Island, is an unusual and beautiful site. Behind the beach are lagoons where flamingoes feed. A trail leads up Cerro Dragon (Dragon Hill) to an area where land iguanas nest. This population almost went extinct, due to predation by feral dogs. After the dogs were eliminated in 1990, the iguanas were reintroduced and are now thriving.
Rabida Island has a distinctive look, with its reddish beach, cliffs, and steep slopes of volcanic cinders. The short trail leading inland is a good place to observe land birds such as finches, doves, yellow warblers, and mockingbirds. Hidden behind a narrow strip of green salt bush is a briny lagoon where flamingos may be found, sometimes even nesting. Snorkeling along the rocks at the east end of the beach may reveal many of the reef fish common to these waters. (b,l,d)
Fernandina Island / Isabela Island
Fernandina and Isabela islands lie on the western edge of the archipelago. Fernandina is the youngest and most active volcano in the Galapagos, erupting every few years. It is also one of the most pristine islands, with none of man's introduced species to date. The flat lava is a stark landscape, barren except for the occasional clump of Brachycereus cactus and the green fringe of mangrove. Colonies of marine iguanas bask in the sun along the shore. Flightless cormorants build their nests on the point, and sea lions sprawl on the beach or play in the tidepools.
Isabela Island, formed by six huge volcanoes joined by extensive lava flows, is the largest island of the archipelago. We'll disembark at Tagus Cove, where for centuries ships called to supply themselves with water and giant tortoises for fresh meat. Names and dates are carved in the rocks to record these visits. A walk inland will take us to scenes of the lava slopes of Darwin Volcano and its green crater lake. (b,l,d)
Puerto Egas (Santiago Island) / Bartolome Island
Puerto Egas is an area of black-sand beaches on the western edge of Santiago Island. A walk down the scenic rugged shoreline, especially at low tide, will reveal many marine species. Iguanas bask on the rocks and sea lions laze in the tide pools. At the end of the trail is a marvelous series of grottoes carved deep into the lava, where fur seals lounge on shady ledges while parrotfish flash by in a streak of color through the clear waters below.
Bartolome Island is a fascinating volcanic landscape of spatter cones, tuff cones, golden beaches, and black lava flows. Stairs lead to the summit through an eerie moonscape of cinder, rock, and dusty white tequilia plants. The view from the top is well worth the climb. Just across the bay is the vast black lava field of Sullivan Bay. Far to the west lie the volcanic peaks of Isabela. Below us stands Pinnacle Rock, the eroded remains of an old tuff cone. At its base is a lovely sand beach, home to a tiny colony of Galapagos penguins. (b,l,d)
South Plaza Island / Santa Fe Island
South Plaza Island is one of the smallest islands to be visited. A large colony of sea lions occupies the smooth rocks here. The small cactus forest is populated by land iguanas, which can be seen sunning themselves or feeding on Opuntia pads and fruits. Along the cliff edge we'll find nesting swallow-tailed gulls, as well as tropicbirds and shearwaters.
Santa Fe Island is a picturesque anchorage, best appreciated from the trail which climbs the fault cliff over the bay. Here we'll look for the large land iguanas that are endemic to this island. The two beaches are sleeping grounds for sea lions, and snorkeling near the small island by the entrance of the bay can also be rewarding. (b,l,d)
Espanola (Hood) Island
We'll spend the day on Espanola Island, one of the oldest islands in Galapagos. Although stark in appearance, the island supports a variety of animal life. The beautiful sand beach at Gardner Bay is strewn with sea lions. Here we'll go for a swim and a snorkel. Punta Suarez, the western tip of the island, is one of the most outstanding wildlife areas of the archipelago, with a long list of species that can be seen along its cliffs and beaches. In addition to five species of nesting seabirds, it boasts the world's only known nesting site of the waved albatross, which we will visit this afternoon. Several types of reptiles, including the brilliantly colored marine iguana and the oversized lava lizard, are unique to this island. Late this afternoon we'll make our way to the town of Puerto Ayora, on Santa Cruz Island, where we'll disembark for the land portion of our Galapagos adventure. Overnight at the Hotel Galapagos (or similar). (b,l,d)
Note: This is the cruise itinerary that is planned, with the above locations to be visited. The actual itinerary may be altered due to local weather conditions, park regulations, seasonal activities, or other factors. But the locations and activities will remain essentially the same.
Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz Island
Santa Cruz is home to the Charles Darwin Research Station and the town of Puerto Ayora. We'll have three full days here, to explore the island in depth. At the Charles Darwin Research Station, we'll see the huge land tortoises, or Galapagos, which once flourished on the islands. The populations were decimated in the early 1800's by the whaling ships, which stopped here to fill their holds with fresh meat. We've also arranged a special behind-the-scenes visit at the station, to learn about the research and conservation efforts of the scientists there.
Our stay on Santa Cruz will include visits to all of the ecological zones. We'll drive up into the highlands of Santa Cruz, a humid region of green hills and eroding volcanoes. We'll explore stands of scalesia forest (giant relatives of the sunflower), and Los Gemelos, deep pit craters of collapsed volcanic cones filled with lush vegetation. The birding is great in the highlands, and we'll make a special effort to find wild tortoises here as well.
There will also be time to get to know the little town of Puerto Ayora, and to learn about some of the current problems and possibilities that face the Galapagos Islands and their inhabitants, both human and otherwise. Overnights at the Hotel Galapagos (or similar). (3b, 2l)
Galapagos - Quito
We'll make our way across the highlands of Santa Cruz today and shuttle to the nearby island of Baltra, where we'll catch our flight back to Quito. Overnight at the Hotel Sebastian. (b)
Quito
You'll have the day free in Quito to explore on your own. Old Quito is an important World Heritage Site of plazas, churches, and cathedrals, some of which date back to the sixteenth century. You'll also want to browse the shops for Ecuador's wonderful hand-crafted sweaters, weavings, pottery, and leather goods. This evening we'll celebrate with a farewell dinner of Ecuadorian fare. Overnight at the Hotel Sebastian. (b,d)
Quito - Los Angeles
We'll be taken to the airport this morning for our flight to Los Angeles, where we connect with a flight home. (b)
Galapagos cost: $3695, land & cruise
Based on a minimum of 14 participants. With 10-13, add a small-group surcharge of $200.
Air from Los Angeles: $1150
Air from Miami: $950
Single-room supplement: $225
(Quito and Galapagos hotel only; singles are not available on the cruise.)
Included: Galapagos cruise. All accommodations, transportation and transfers in Ecuador. Most meals, as indicated in the itinerary. Talks and guided walks by expert naturalist guides. All pre-trip administration, information, and services.
Not Included: Galapagos park and port fees (currently $100). Ecuador departure tax (currently $25). US airport taxes (currently $52). Optional tips to guides and service personnel. Personal expenses such as beverages, laundry, etc.
The price reflects current costs, with two people sharing accommodations. Single rooms for the land portion of the trip are available at an extra cost. The trip cost is based on cruise accommodations in twin-berthed cabins on the lower (Iguana) deck. Twin- or double-berthed cabins are also available on the two upper decks (Booby and Dolphin). If you wish to guarantee a cabin on one of the upper decks, you may do so at an additional charge of $200 per person. If not, cabins will be assigned on a first-come basis, with earlier sign-ups given upper-deck cabins.
To get the most out of these trips you should be reasonably fit, as the days are very active. There will be several hours of walking each day, sometimes in heat, mud, or high altitude. It is important that you are able to get around easily, since you'll be climbing in and out of boats, walking over uneven rocks and loose boulders, and hiking rough trails. If you have any questions about your ability to participate in this trip, please contact Voyagers International, 800-633-0299, for more information.
One of the most important aspects of your Galapagos experience is the boat on which you travel. We will be aboard the 20-passenger Eric, a motor yacht designed exclusively for cruising the Galapagos. Two licensed Galapagos guides will conduct all shore and snorkeling excursions, give lectures on ecology, and hold briefing sessions each night on the next day's activities. Accommodation is in ten outside cabins, located on three decks. Each cabin accommodates two, in twin lower berths or one double berth, with private bathroom facilities and hot-water shower, as well as separate climate controls. Ample public areas include a dining room and bar, a comfortable lounge with VCR and stereo, and a book and video library.
You will be escorted throughout by veteran tour leader Bill McComas. Bill is a professor in the Rossier School of Education at the University of Southern California, where he directs the Center to Advance Science Education. He teaches courses in educational research, science education, and the philosophy of science. In addition to his scientific background in biology and geology, Bill is also a professional photographer specializing in natural history. His work has included assignments to ecology research sites throughout Central America and the United States, and he would be glad to offer tips to the photographers on our voyage. Bill is currently preparing a one-man exhibition entitled "Life in the Middle," featuring photographs from the equatorial region. He has traveled extensively and led trips throughout the world, including previous visits to the Galapagos and the jungles of South America.